Heavy skies and rain in Chamonix yesterday and to get some climbing done we went down the valley to La Maladiere. Indiana Jaune 6b+, 9 pitches was a great and sheltered route that Andreas had climbed twice before. In the end we squeezed through a little chimney and finished out right, avoiding the last pitch by some reason. Finished off with a great milkshake and dinner in Argentiere.
Had a great day out yesterday with Mattias and Johanna, climbing the Perroux gully on the Triangle du tacul. We had some ice and snow on the rock and it made the climbing delicate and fun. It was hard to finish the route completely in these conditions but the four pitches we did was good fun for a day.
After 3 months of crowds in Chamonix it starts to feel quiet again. Me and Swedish friend Linus Kulstad went up to camp on the glaciers below Grand Capucin with the ambition to climb, camp and hang out up there. Pitching our tent in the morning was easy. Endless square metres of flat glacier to pick from. With no track to the tower we did put it in and started to climb some dihedrals for 4 pitches. Traversing over into the Swiss route without hope of summiting. It was cold, we were a little bit late and did’nt whant to do the rapells in the dark since none of us had been here before. The weather was great but cold with a thin cloud covering the sun… after 5 pitches on the swiss route we decided to get back to camp… A great trip!
The winter catalogue from Tierra is here… Since i’m featuring on some pictures I had to go out in the sun in Chamonix and take a few photos of it.
Fredrik Schenholm has taken many of the photos in the catalogue and it should be out in the stores soon..
Did (most likely) the last work of the season last week, finishing at the summit of Mont Blanc in perfect conditions and weather. Thanks Wolfgang and Eva at Mountain Spirit Guides for great supply of work this summer. Celebrating the first day of autumn vacation together with Swedish friend and photographer Fredrik Schenholm. We went to the east face of brevent and climbed the classic corner Ex Libris 6b, Trad. Skipping the two last (loose) pitches… A bit chilly we worked our way up there and enjoyed a great day of climbing.